TASTE of the TICKET: Miller Union

MILLER UNION

999 Brady Ave, NW (map)

Atlanta, GA 30318

Phone: 678-733-8550

www.millerunion.com

Admittedly, I became a sucker for this place the moment my dinner companion and I sat down. Upon arriving, we had asked the host if there were any available tables on the patio, and the only one left was being held for another reservation so we were seated in one of the small dining rooms.  Five minutes later, the host came back to tell us the guests who had reserved the outdoor table were going to be late and offered to move us outside.  Though a small gesture, this thoughtfulness really made an impression on me.

The patio turned out to be lovely and our table was surrounded by large planters filled with fresh herbs, which is always a good sign at a restaurant that touts local cuisine.  I ordered the Papi Chulo cocktail ($11) and my companion ordered …… a Brooklyn Lager but soon switched over to the Papi Chulo, too.  The combination of blanco tequila, cucumber, lime, agave and herbs made for the freshest take on a margarita that I’ve ever had.

For starters, I chose the radish and feta snack ($4) and my companion got the creamy grits fritters with country ham and Thomasville Tomme ($5).  The freshness and variety of the radishes blew me away, as did the creamy feta dip served alongside them, but the fritters were just average and we didn’t get any flavor from the ham.  This is definitely the spot to squeeze in your recommended servings of vegetables!

I ordered duck confit leg with cucumber, asparagus and farro salad ($21) for my entrée, and my friend ordered white wine braised rabbit with herb gnocchi, wild ramps and spring peas ($27).  While I thoroughly enjoyed the vegetable and farro salad served underneath the duck, the duck itself was a bit dry for my tastes.  But guests’ rabbit and herb gnocchi dish was fantastic and more than made up for it.  The rabbit was moist and flavorful, and the gnocchi were fluffy pillows of pure flavor.  Once again, the fresh vegetables and herbs took center stage.

We couldn’t resist a sweet ending to the meal, so I opted for carrot cake with crème fraîche ice cream ($6) while my friend got the flourless chocolate cake with soft whipped cream ($6).  I usually stay away from flourless chocolate cakes and generally find them to be too dense, but this one was a winner.  And the crème fraîche ice cream served with my carrot cake was the perfect amount of added sweetness to balance out the savory component of the carrot cake.  It definitely took this dessert to the next level and ended the meal on a high note.