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Shakedown in Mexico (Reader Report)

(Photo: Willem van Bergen / Flickr)

(Photo: Willem van Bergen / Flickr)

Driver, beware. Since we are in the peak of spring break travel season, and many TravelSkills readers (or their family members) may be headed to Mexico on vacation, we offer up this Reader Report as word of caution.

It’s important to note that TravelSkills reader D.D.’s experience in Mexico is not isolated– nearly the exact same thing happened to me many years ago in Cancun. And we’ve heard similar reports from other readers from other Mexican cities and resorts recently. Has it happened to you, too? Please leave your comments below…

Twice in five days, the Cancun police stopped me and issued me tickets while I was driving a rental car in Mexico this week. 

I want to provide a bit of travel history and driving context to this conversation.  This is my 22nd visit to Mexico since 1998, and the fourth time I have rented a car in this country in four years.  I have been to Cancun four times.  Outside of this week’s getting stopped, I haven’t had a speeding ticket in nine years.  And I have had no tickets or hassles driving in Mexico.

Until now.

My encounters with the Cancun police were notably similar, with small and interesting variations.   In both instances,  the police car pulled me over, the passenger patrolman approached the car, greeted me, shook my hand, took my license, and asked me out of the car–my passenger remained inside.  In both instances, the officer explained the infraction (more on these later), and told me that I could pick up my license at the police station in downtown Cancun the following day once I paid the fine of 2000 pesos (the second officer rounded up to 200 US$).

My first ticket was for going 78 Km in a 70 Km zone (akin to going 39 mph in a 35 mph zone, for the metrically afflicted).  My second was for going through a yellow light, which the patrol car happily facilitated, by driving at 30 Km in front of me, then turning so as to deposit me in the center of the now yellow intersection.   And yes, he was ready, with flashing lights once I made it through.

Rather miraculously,  the first encounter ended with the ticket-writing officer suddenly deciding to let me go–he handed me my license,  and waved me off.  Throughout the exchange,  I was polite, but insistent that I was driving the speed limit.

Photo: Christien Cordova / Flickr

Photo: Christien Cordova / Flickr

In the second case, the patrolman started bargaining with me from the start.  “The ticket is $200US if you pay it at the station tomorrow,  but if you pay it right now, it is only $100.”  I protested that I didn’t have $100, and perhaps a warning made more sense–he then offered $80.  Sensing that we were now bargaining as if negotiating over sunglass prices with a beach vendor, I offered $50, which he rejected–but I handed him 700 pesos (about $48) and he gave me back my license.

Needless to say, once we got back to our hotel, the car stayed garaged for the trip duration.   And the drive from hotel to airport was incredibly mindful of every speed limit,  traffic sign,  and red light.

We joked that our leaving Cancun would be a bit like the last minutes of the movie Argo.  I love to travel, and usually regret having to leave a destination.   In this instance,  however,  we couldn’t wait to go.

Throughout all the troubles and travel advisories Mexico has experienced,  I have been an advocate for continued travel here.  Mexico provides color and texture and warmth–both temperature and service–with unrivaled value and noteworthy proximity to the US.  And Cancun–on paper, at least–is a perfect place to rent a car.   The roads are great,  signage clear,  and attractions numerous.  Moreover, renting a car is inexpensive by US standards.

Photo: 16:9 Clue / Flickr

Photo: 16:9 Clue / Flickr

But I cannot endorse this destination–Cancun–any longer after this experience; at the least, renting a car here is contraindicated.  While it is clear that citing law-abiding travellers is easier than stopping drug cartels, it is equally clear that Cancun turns a blind eye to the harassment of visitors in this fashion. 

Cancun’s tolerance of such corruption by its police certainly affected my perception of the place, and dampened any enthusiasm for returning that I might have otherwise had.  And next time I hear some Mexican tourism authority official pleading for individual or group business amidst the stigma of ongoing drug violence,  I will ponder this:  You can’t end your petty corruption let alone fight your crime problems.  Throw a tarp over your hotels in Cancun for all I care.

D.D., Denver, Colorado

We found some helpful advice about how to deal with demands for a “mordida” or bribe in Mexico and other Latin American countries here.

Mordida

Another site recommends having a copy of your drivers license available when driving in Mexico, and only providing the real thing at the police station.

Have you ever been asked for a bribe when driving in another country? Share your experience below.

–Chris McGinnis

Would you like to submit a Reader Report to TravelSkills? Here are our guidelines.

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Comments

  1. Cancun motorcycle cop shook me down for $100 US today. Was merging onto 307 on way to airport – at a speed safe to merge with ongoing traffic – and got pulled over. Cop said we could come to police office and pay $2,500 pesos or pay him $100 US on the spot. We paid the $100 and he left us alone to make our flight.

  2. It is illegal to pay a bribe to a police officer. The same way in Mexico as it is in any other country. By paying the bribe, you are part of the problem.

  3. A police officer stopped me in the Dominican Republic, saying I had made an illegal left turn. I was adamant that I didn’t, and I argued and argued until he gave up and let me go on my way. I figured he wanted a bribe, but I wasn’t about to pay it. And I didn’t. Not sure what I did was smart, but it worked out.

  4. A similar incident happened to a group of us going into Cancun for the first time. We were going through immigration after arriving at the airport and all of us made it through, but one. My friend was held up with a claim that something was wrong with her paperwork. The immigration officer kept delaying her until she nonchalantly passed a $20 to him. Miraculously, her paperwork issue was solved and she was allowed into the country. That incident left a bad taste in my mouth ever since.

    I lived in Mexico, for a brief period of time, when I was kid and my Dad said to always have spare cash in your pockets because the police will stop you for no reason other than to bribe you. Sad, sad, sad.

  5. Sent via email from reader NB:
    Regarding the above article, something akin to this happened to me in Tijuana many years ago. I was driving the main route to return across the border to the US. I had three passengers, including an Australian, who didn’t have his passport with him. It was nighttime, and I had missed a sign and found myself going the wrong way down a one way street. No sooner had I realized this than, sure enough, at the next intersection was a police car blocking the road with its red and blue lights flashing. In retrospect I have always thought the situation was a setup, and that I was deliberately duped into my mistake.
    The two cops asked me out of the car, took my license. They said I would have to go to the courthouse. However, it was 9PM, and the judge would have be awakened and summoned to the courthouse. He would not like this, they said. In roundabout, but very obvious ways they began suggesting a bribe. I had no idea how much it would take to buy them off and thought, what if I don’t give them enough. Then I’ll really be in trouble. I was also concerned about my Australian friend. I decided not to play along and kept saying they would just have to take me to the courthouse despite the hour. They tried to play “good cop, bad cop”, alternatively talking threateningly and nicely. I held my ground, calling their bluff. I must say I was pretty scared. It took about a half an hour, but finally they let us go. This was an unforgettable experience. I have never driven in Mexico since.

  6. I too love Mexico (and Mexicans). I have been there several times and never had a problem. Of course, I use reasonable caution, including taking taxis when possible and not driving. Now my nephew lives in Los Angeles County and is hassled by the Sheriff regularly because he is poor and rides a bicycle. He doesn’t do anything wrong, but they are trying to chase him out of town because he is poor…just doing their job… I try to avoid Los Angeles, but I know there are other communities in the good old USA that also have corrupt practices. I recommend visiting Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque, San Miguel, Guanajuato, Morelia, D.F., Puebla, and Oaxaca over Los Angeles.

  7. Paperclip $40 to your drivers license and hand the whole thing to the police officer. Saves you the time of going through the whole “ticket” charade. They’ll just hand you back the drivers license minus the cash and send you on your way.

  8. Absolutely! my wife and I go there instead. Do you ever have diner at the Metropol or Mi Casita in Isle Verde?

  9. I just returned from Mexico City last evening and an elderly couple I was in line with had been at the airport since 5:00 a.m. that morning. First time for them out of the country and they picked a Mexican vacation. this was the last flight back to the USA we were in line for. There problem is they did have the exit portion of the immigration documentation when they arrived at the airport. Yes it was there fault they through it away but as they explained they were never told to keep it. They spent 5 hours being sent from one office to another office (obviously missing there 6:45 a.m. departure) to get it sorted out. I travel internationally a lot and not another country still does this procedure. I am surprised they didn’t have to pay some squeeze to get out but didn’t. DON’T GO TO MEXICO ON VACATION.

  10. “When in Mexico, do as the Mexicans”????? Corruption, Murder, Shake downs, oppression the poor. I’ve been doing business there for 15 years or so and I hurt for the people. We can go down and live like kings but not them. I to have been to San Luis Potosi at the GM plant. try to make a living there and not live off of western money in a corrupt country.

  11. While your comments are somewhat “in your face” you are correct. I go down there on business to help clean their water and it is a joke. I used to be stunned but now it is just TMW (The Mexican Way as the locals translate it)

  12. SJ, excellent comments. going to Mexico is ludicrous with the other options available. see my comments below under Taylor. We turn a blind eye and in some way think it is cute until it turns truly ugly on trumped up charges.

  14. I love Mexico and plan on retiring there. My love affair began 35 years ago when I spent a summer going to school in San Luis Potosi, and it has never ebbed once. I just spent a glorious 2 weeks in Mexico during the New Years’ break and was reminded once again how lovely the Mexican people can be. By the way, I’ve never found the need to rent or drive a car in Mexico… can’t be bothered. The cost of a taxi or bus is so miniscule that having a car is unnecessary, and usually a hassle not worth the perceived convenience. We Americans are too addicted to our cars, our fast-food outlets, and our self-indulgences to leave them behind when we travel abroad. To paraphrase a famous quote, ‘When in Mexico, do as the Mexicans’.

  15. There is not excuse for officials behaving like they do in Mexico. Making excuses for this behavior is why drug cartels rule the country. I just returned from Mexico City this past evening and it is about my 40th visit over the past 15 years. We, Westerners lets say, think it is the Mexico way because we can to back to our country. It is unacceptable at every level. Every level. I’m not banging on Taylor but I will never go to Mexico on vacation. Ever. As a matter of fact my Mexican business counter parts discourage it.

  17. Anyone who patronizes Mexico is a fool. It is a failed country, with failed people and failed values. Whether it is political corruption, complacency for their people, lack of opportunity, a vicious religion, the treatment of gays or women, and the ability to keep the money for the wealthy, while exporting their poor and dispossessed to the north.

    Americans and Canadians who patronize Mexico are enablers and complicit in these acts. Shame on you.

  18. well said. Exploring developing nations can be an adventure. Make sure to read up on any threats ahead of time, check the Dept. of State website, and know how to interact with local authorities (police).

  19. Awesome tips. Thanks for sharing the inside scoop on some of the laws regarding traffic stops in Mexico.

  20. Just another black mark against Mexico. Between all of the violence with there mafia, the poverty and the state of things why would anyone go to Mexico. Yes places like Cabo, Puerto Vallerta, Acapulco and Cancun have been hot spots to go on vacation in the winter for years, but does anyone really feel safe there anymore? Going to Mexico is about as much of a gamble as going to Venezuela or Jamaica, anything can happen. With so many great places to go in the Caribbean like Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, there is no reason going to Mexico. There are also great places in the Pacific like Hawaii and Tahiti, yes a hassle getting there from the east coast but still a vaction in Maui is ten times better than any place in Mexico. Yes it cost more but we have not seen the level of problems in Hawaii as you see in Mexico. A lot of the reasons that people go to Mexico is the cost, yes you can get a lot cheaper vacation down there but with all of these problems is it really worth it?? Trust me when I say Hawaii is the best and for those on the east coast and don’t want to fly for ten hours, try going to Casa de Campo on the Dominican Republic, its still one of the best valued places to go in the winter months (except for around Christmas) and its got one of the best in beaches, food and overall friendly, safe environments.

  21. This is very common and I highly recommend people research before driving in any country. If you have, you would have learned ways to effectively combat the “mordita” (the bribe).
    We do bear some responsibility in perpetuating this behavior. It’s so easy for them to make money this way when we so willingly hand over our cash to them.

  22. THIS ISN’T NEWS….ONCE LONG TIME AGO I WORKED FOR THE TIJUANA / SAN DIEGO PASSAGE FOR AMERICAN CARS GET INTO MEXICO, I WORKED FOR THE 1-800 LINE ESTABLISHED HERE IN USA. ….AND LET ME TELL YOU…THE MEXICAN OFFICERS AT ONE PHONE CALL SOLD A FAKE ENTRY TO AN OLD COUPLE AND IN THE WAY BACK THEIR CAR GOT CONFISCATED!…I HEARD SO MANY…BUT SO MANY…REALS DESPERATE CASES…BESIDES KIDNAPING S ON THE TV NEWS ETC…THAT MEXICO IS NOT ON MY LIST FOR VACATION…I RATHER GO TO MEXICO PAVILION IN EPCOT CENTER ORLANDO, FL….FEEL THES AME I AM AND MY FAMILY ARE SAFE.
    THANKS GOSH WE LEAVE IN USA!

  23. The only place this has ever happened to me is Mexico. It is what keeps me going to Puerto Rico.

  24. This is really no news. If you know a little bit about Mexico, this is what Mexican cops do., Nothing to see here. This has been going on since the beginning of time

  25. It has happened to me also last year. I got pulled over for going 5 mph over the speed limit at a stretch of road where the speed limit drops significantly. I was not aware of the speed change.

    The second day I wanted to drive back to find the speed limit sign and got pulled over again for speeding. Both times I offered the copy less than $50 and he accepted it. He was basically looking for brides the entire time.

  26. The author says “My first ticket was for going 78 Km in a 70 Km zone (akin to going 39 mph in a 35 mph zone, for the metrically afflicted).”

    But it is the author himself who is “metrically afflicted.” 78 km in a 70 km zone is akin to going 48 mph in a 43 mph zone.

  27. I believe it was 1965 because we still had the old Rambler station wagon when we got waylaid by a Federale in a 1956 Ford black-and-white coupe, just like TV’s Highway Patrol only, you know, nine years later and with lights flashing in color. So don’t let them say kidnapping can’t happen, because they took the collie with them at sunset when the Peso bills we tried to pay with turned out counterfeit,
    and the pistol shot accidentally hit the siren dead-on as it was not aimed there.

  28. I used to live in El Paso and I drove in Mexico a lot and never had a single problem. You’ll get no sympathy from me for getting a speeding ticket if you’re going faster than the posted limit. But I will sympathize over the yellow light. The traffic lights in Mexico, at least in Juarez in the early 1990s, were very strange. The green light would actually blink and then it would turn yellow for about one second before turning red. It seemed almost designed to trap motorists. Anyway, I was told to use a trick if a cop pulled me over and gave me a ticket. You don’t actually give the bribe to the cop, you give him the money and say, “Please give this to the judge as payment, okay?” At least that’s what I was told, I never had the opportunity to try it. On the other hand, an American friend of mine in Germany was stopped by a cop and given a ticket, and it paid it on the spot by swiping his credit card in a device hanging from the cop’s belt.

  29. While in Bali, my wife and I were on a moped driving through the crowded streets. We went a little astray so I pulled into a small parking lot of a store to plug in my GPS. There was a couple of police, which I did not see, on the corner and they walked over to us. They started by stating, “this is not a parking spot and to follow them a few feet to their ramshackle hut for a talking. Then they got into the price of the ticket 650k IDR (~$50). I played dumb and showed him all I had in my pocket was about 265k IDR($20). He actually told me to empty all my pockets to see if I had anything else, including a wallet. But nothing. He said he would discount me and accepted the money and told me to abide by the laws. I was tempted to ask for a receipt but did not push it. BTW, I did have more money, it was in my tennis shoe. Lesson learned.

  30. Quick advice from a Mexican living in Mexico.

    You’re not required to give them your papers, you’re only required to show it to them. They hate it when you do that (just showing it to them), but it really takes a lot of pressure off of you.
    The second tip, as long as you’re certain you did nothing wrong, is argue, argue as long as you can.
    It can take a long time, I once spent 40 minutes arguing with an officer, but they don’t like wasting time, and if you hold on long enough, they will just let you go so that they can hunt for their next victim.
    The third one, and this is if you know he’s right, offer to pay the fine, worst case scenario you’ll end up paying it, it’s often cheaper than a bribe, but if you get lucky they’ll let you go since they won’t get anything either way.

  31. While this police interaction, by most developed world standards, is completely absurd … it pays to understand why this happens. The “policia municipal” (municipal police) across Mexico are very poorly paid and receive training that is woefully sub-par. They do these shenanigans out of desperation and to make an extra buck. After living in several cities in Mexico, I have learned to always insist on a “multa” (fine) and to take care of things at the police station. 9.9 times out of 10, this polite insistence on resolving the issue by official channels results in the police giving you your documents back and sending you on your way without further incident. I’d argue this isn’t a reason not to endorse Cancun or many other Mexican destinations. Rather, this is a valuable tale of warning for one who undertakes the incredible adventure of traveling to a developing country.

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